Day 22 Christchurch to Auckland and Home (3/23/13)

A very early wake up in our ChCh motel to leave for the airport at 6:00 am for our 8:00 flight. We arrived in Auckland at 9ish and said goodbye to the Hawaii-bound Vittitoes. They will spend a few days in Honolulu with Chase.

Terry and Jim had about 8 hours to kill, so took a bus to the waterfront in Auckland where we revisited some of our favorite spots from 3 weeks ago...the train station for Internet, The Waterfront restaurant for another NZ burger, with egg, beets, cheese...the works! We split that and had some beer-Terry's new vice.

After deciding the museum was too far and time too short, Jim sat in the train station while Terry roamed Queen Street and High Street, doing the "S" word...shopping. Got a Christmas ornament and other little goodies and enjoyed watching the crazily dressed young people on their way to "Beerfest" down at the Queen's Wharf. There were over 50 kinds of beer being sampled, but you had to pay $50 to get in, and then buy the beer. Looked to be a crazy time.

We caught the bus back to the International Airport and spent some time browsing the Duty Free shops. We've just boarded the plane, and while sad the vacation is over, we are anxious to see our kids and friends back home.

Day 21- Banks Peninsula to Christchurch (3/22/13)

Good morning at the Kawatea Farm! We awoke in our wonderful farmhouse to the grand kids playing in the sitting room and Judy making us a made-to-order breakfast before escaping to Christchurch for a home and garden tour.

That left us at the mercy of the dour and repetitive Kerry, verbally fencing with another guest, Phil, about the New Zealand definition of "covenant" vs "easement"...riveting. We chose not to linger, as Adam, the farming son, and Judy were both gone and no farm action would be happening, nor sensible give and take conversation either...

We drove to the beach at Okains Bay, where the farm property stretches for miles at the sea, and hiked along the headland looking at the tidepools and views. Very peaceful...

On the road again, we tackled the winding and dramatic road to Akoroa, the French settled town, where Suzanne and Terry did some serious possum merino shopping while Jim and Craig enjoyed the cruise ship crowd flooding the streets. Not. We had another very slow bite at an outdoor seaside cafe, and enjoyed the beautiful day and scenery while trying not to be impatient with the sloooow service.

Winding roads back to Christchurch where we found our motel and got a plan for the rest of our afternoon. Craig and Jim headed for golf while Terry and Suzanne did a walk around the Botanic Gardens to the "new" shopping and cafe district. Yikes! They were not kidding when they said that the city is destroyed. So many things closed and streets blocked...there is not much to see but fencing and abandoned buildings. We went to the Re:Start mall (or pop up mall), where they have tried to reopen businesses in containers, but not much of that area was open. We wandered, not finding cafes or pubs, and finally found the one pub in the area and sat for a few hours waiting for the guys.

Jim and Craig had some challenges even finding us, with street closures and one way streets, but we had a good pub dinner and came back to our motel before 10:00. Tomorrow we fly out at 8:00 am, with the Vittitoes headed to Hawaii and the Hawleys with a day to kill at the airport in Auckland. We may try to see the museum.

Day 20 Dunedin to Okains Bay/Banks Peninsula (3/21/13)

This morning was an early start, after appreciating the sunrise over Otago Harbor from our balcony. Our drive took us north along Highway 1 towards Christchurch.

Judy, our host in Riverton, had suggested a stop in Moeraki to visit the famed round rocks at the shoreline, and also mentioned a restaurant called Fleur, with a wild lady who caught fresh fish and gathered herbs before cooking them up at her place. We turned too soon for the rocks, but drove down beside a quaint harbor looking for Fleur. What a charming seaside place with French farmhouse-meets Marseilles vibe! We had some lattes and walked around taking pictures, wishing it was time for lunch. Terry bought her biography, and it will be a must-do if we are ever back.

Found the rocks down the road- underwhelmed, but a nice walk on the beach.

We stopped in Oamaru to see the Victorian heritage buildings-another brief visit. On to Waimate with its mythic woolen outlet... Whoops, another penguin quest...

On through Timaru, bypassing Christchurch to get to the Banks Peninsula. A highlight was passing the South Island's Agricultural Field Days exhibition, acres of the latest farming and logging equipment. This is why we could not get lodging in Christchurch! As I write this, the boys have decided the delights of Akaroa can wait, and they must visit said farming equipment (determined to do so after seeing a power log-peeling wonder from outside the fence)... Suzanne and Terry wait in the parking field splitting a beer, after donating one to the kind gate attendant for the use of his bottle opener. We need to step up our beer opening skills!

After the boys rejoined us, we continued to our farmstay at Kawatea. We drove forever, up and down steep winding roads, finally arriving at about 5:30 to a lovely 100 year old farmhouse with gorgeous rose and hydrangea gardens. Judy and crusty Kerry are our hosts on this huge sheep and cattle farm that has been in the family for 4 generations. The house has 12 foot ceilings, leaded windows and tons of charm.

We sat on the porch and listened to Kerry's stories (some unintelligible) and later got to meet his son who runs the farm now. He showed us his working dogs (border collies) and two pet sheep that his two little boys climbed all over. Very fun, and boy, were those dogs trained! They also have a Jack Russell and a Blue Heeler as pets.

We had a family style dinner with another couple from Boston, and Terry enjoyed talking to Judy in the kitchen. It would be a very hard and isolated life out here, but she loves having her family all around her, her vegetable garden, and guests to talk to.

We will probably try to get a hotel in Christchurch tomorrow, since this farm is 1 1/2 hour from the airport.

Day 19 Kaka Point to Dunedin (3/20/13)

As our trip is winding to a close, it is becoming more obvious that as we pick our last days' itinerary, we are faced with frustrating choices; do we see more country and spend more time on the road, or do we see less and try to savor it more? No right answer...

We left Ken, our host at Kaka Point, and his farming stories, after spending time trying to sort out the next few days and get some reservations. Tricky with spotty phone service and uncertain plans. Luckily, the drive to Dunedin was only 1 1/2 hours.

Dunedin is the Edinbourgh of the south, with much Scottish heritage. As we drove into the city, we were surprised both with its beauty and the fact that it had motorways and traffic lights... we have been in rural country for awhile! We arrived at the Brother's Boutique Hotel, a converted Christian Brothers residence across the street from the Catholic Cathedral, where the manager took us immediately in hand with maps and plans for the day ( and the definite attitude we were giving Dunedin short shrift and should skip Christ Church altogether!).

Armed with our maps, we walked to the city center and had a bite at a sidewalk cafe, stopping first at the Cathedral to say a prayer for Kathleen's boards. We visited the train station, the Presbyterian Cathedral, and an Anglican Church. Then we headed out to the Otago Peninsula to find some albatross...

It was a gorgeous one hour drive along the coast up to the Royal Albatross Preserve, where patience was rewarded with seeing a few huge birds in the sky over the nesting area. Magnificent. We drove to the Penguin Preserve, but decided our penguin-seeking budget and time had reached its limit. We took the high peninsula road back and had tremendous views to the sea in both directions. Hairy, narrow drives both ways, but worth it (thanks Driver Jim).

On our way back to the hotel, we swung by the university (just okay) and picked up some wine to enjoy on our balcony overlooking the city. Good conversation as we watched the sun fade...

Off to a local spot for some Emerson beer, haggis, and Scotch, then off to bed. Tomorrow is another big drive as we go past Christ Church to a farm stay on the Akoroa peninsula.

Day 18 Riverton/Catlins/Kapa Point

We awoke to the sea this morning in our little B & B and had a great breakfast prepared by our host Judy. She was an interesting conversationalist; from egg poaching techniques to politics and the state of Maori relations.

We headed east through Invercargill and over to the Catlins area which begins at a village named Fortrose. After a coffee stop there, we drove a gravel road to Waipapa Point, and saw a beautiful lighthouse, tidepools, and sea lions. The sea lions looked so much like the rocks, Suzanne almost stepped on one! The lighthouse was completed 4 years after a major shipwreck in 1881 (with the largest loss of life in NZ) just on the reef within sight of the shore.

The tidepools and birds here were great, but the famed Curio Bay was waiting. All the books said Curio was the spot for penguins, Hector's Dolphins and the petrified forest... We must have had had the timing wrong. We did see some dolphins in the distance, some microscopic penguins even further away, and lots of petrified tree stumps in the tidepool rocks. Uh oh... Are we getting jaded?

We drove on with low expectations to McLean Falls, which promised nothing compared to the falls of Milford. What a treat! The 20 minute hike was absolutely stunning, with lush ferns, dense forest, birds singing... The falls were great, roaring through moss covered boulders in several impressive tiers. We even got a bit more waterfall climbing in! It was amazing that you walked from dry brush land into rain forest in the space of five feet.

We finished our drive through wonderful rolling pastureland (much greener than the North Island), again filled with sheep and cattle. We wound around scenic bays and arrived in Kaka Point to snag a sea view apartment B and B and dine at the only place in town, "The Point". Local color and a salty old owner who directed us to another penguin site. After dinner we attacked another gravel road winding along the sea cliffs at dusk to see some more microscopic penguins. The penguin quest has been a bit frustrating..

Off to bed... Tomorrow is the Scottish city Dunedin, only 1 1/2 hour away.

Day 17 Milford Sound to Riverton (3/18/13)

Terry awoke at 5:00 this morning and went up to see the stars of the Southern Cross. Dawn does not come until about 7:00, so plenty of time to raid the ship's library for books on NZ fiords, birds, and info on the Routeburn Track. Super interesting...

After breakfast, the boat began it's sail at 7:45 to the Tasman Sea. Big ocean swells but the drama of the abrupt vertical cliffs softens... The boat turned around with a peek at the lighthouse and headed back to the harbor. What a difference without the rain! Most of the small waterfalls were gone, but the clouds with sunshine peeking through were great.

We arrived back at the dock at 9:30 am and began the drive back to Te Anau up the Milford Road. On our way, we went through the Homer Tunnel (1219 meters long) again, then took Hollyford Road to the Lake Marian trail. There you cross over a swing bridge, then take an amazing climb through moss covered forest to a roaring stream that tumbled over boulders... The prettiest hike we've taken. We didn't go all the way to the lake, but enjoyed it so much.

After a quick lunch stop for meat pies in Te Anau (Terry had wild venison, Jim had chicken and bacon), we drove south toward Invercargill. The landscape did another dramatic change to rolling green pastures, big open blue skies and river crossings. (And sheep, cows, sheep...) We ended driving along the southern coast, stopping at Gemstone Beach, Cosy Cove and Colac Bay; all beautiful in the bright sunshine with a backdrop of sheep covered green hills.

We are staying in Riverton at the very charming Riverton Beachfront B and B. There are two ocean front rooms with high ceilings, pale blue beadboard walls, giant doors with antique handles...super quaint. Judy is our host and will have breakfast for us in the morning.

We will drive through the Catlins tomorrow, hoping to see some wildlife and take some hikes. Still trying to figure out our route for the next few days, knowing we must squeeze what is left of the juice out of our time here. We've kept a quick pace, trying to see as much as possible yet savor it too. It's been fun...