Thursday, March 21, 2013

Day 20 Dunedin to Okains Bay/Banks Peninsula (3/21/13)

This morning was an early start, after appreciating the sunrise over Otago Harbor from our balcony. Our drive took us north along Highway 1 towards Christchurch.

Judy, our host in Riverton, had suggested a stop in Moeraki to visit the famed round rocks at the shoreline, and also mentioned a restaurant called Fleur, with a wild lady who caught fresh fish and gathered herbs before cooking them up at her place. We turned too soon for the rocks, but drove down beside a quaint harbor looking for Fleur. What a charming seaside place with French farmhouse-meets Marseilles vibe! We had some lattes and walked around taking pictures, wishing it was time for lunch. Terry bought her biography, and it will be a must-do if we are ever back.

Found the rocks down the road- underwhelmed, but a nice walk on the beach.

We stopped in Oamaru to see the Victorian heritage buildings-another brief visit. On to Waimate with its mythic woolen outlet... Whoops, another penguin quest...

On through Timaru, bypassing Christchurch to get to the Banks Peninsula. A highlight was passing the South Island's Agricultural Field Days exhibition, acres of the latest farming and logging equipment. This is why we could not get lodging in Christchurch! As I write this, the boys have decided the delights of Akaroa can wait, and they must visit said farming equipment (determined to do so after seeing a power log-peeling wonder from outside the fence)... Suzanne and Terry wait in the parking field splitting a beer, after donating one to the kind gate attendant for the use of his bottle opener. We need to step up our beer opening skills!

After the boys rejoined us, we continued to our farmstay at Kawatea. We drove forever, up and down steep winding roads, finally arriving at about 5:30 to a lovely 100 year old farmhouse with gorgeous rose and hydrangea gardens. Judy and crusty Kerry are our hosts on this huge sheep and cattle farm that has been in the family for 4 generations. The house has 12 foot ceilings, leaded windows and tons of charm.

We sat on the porch and listened to Kerry's stories (some unintelligible) and later got to meet his son who runs the farm now. He showed us his working dogs (border collies) and two pet sheep that his two little boys climbed all over. Very fun, and boy, were those dogs trained! They also have a Jack Russell and a Blue Heeler as pets.

We had a family style dinner with another couple from Boston, and Terry enjoyed talking to Judy in the kitchen. It would be a very hard and isolated life out here, but she loves having her family all around her, her vegetable garden, and guests to talk to.

We will probably try to get a hotel in Christchurch tomorrow, since this farm is 1 1/2 hour from the airport.

























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