We headed east through Invercargill and over to the Catlins area which begins at a village named Fortrose. After a coffee stop there, we drove a gravel road to Waipapa Point, and saw a beautiful lighthouse, tidepools, and sea lions. The sea lions looked so much like the rocks, Suzanne almost stepped on one! The lighthouse was completed 4 years after a major shipwreck in 1881 (with the largest loss of life in NZ) just on the reef within sight of the shore.
The tidepools and birds here were great, but the famed Curio Bay was waiting. All the books said Curio was the spot for penguins, Hector's Dolphins and the petrified forest... We must have had had the timing wrong. We did see some dolphins in the distance, some microscopic penguins even further away, and lots of petrified tree stumps in the tidepool rocks. Uh oh... Are we getting jaded?
We drove on with low expectations to McLean Falls, which promised nothing compared to the falls of Milford. What a treat! The 20 minute hike was absolutely stunning, with lush ferns, dense forest, birds singing... The falls were great, roaring through moss covered boulders in several impressive tiers. We even got a bit more waterfall climbing in! It was amazing that you walked from dry brush land into rain forest in the space of five feet.
We finished our drive through wonderful rolling pastureland (much greener than the North Island), again filled with sheep and cattle. We wound around scenic bays and arrived in Kaka Point to snag a sea view apartment B and B and dine at the only place in town, "The Point". Local color and a salty old owner who directed us to another penguin site. After dinner we attacked another gravel road winding along the sea cliffs at dusk to see some more microscopic penguins. The penguin quest has been a bit frustrating..
Off to bed... Tomorrow is the Scottish city Dunedin, only 1 1/2 hour away.
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